While the New York Finger Lakes Region is rightfully known for its delicious wines and stunning views, a visit to Ontario County, which includes the cities of Canandaigua and Geneva, also provides an enticing look into times gone by. Wandering through the stunning Sonnenberg gardens or dining at Belhurst Castle overlooking Seneca Lake, it’s easy to understand why this area was so appealing to the elite families it attracted.
Canandaigua, located less than a five-hour drive from Pittsburgh, still holds much of the charm that made it the perfect place for wealthy families looking for an escape from New York City. The 40-room, Queen Anne-style Sonnenberg mansion, for example, was built as a second home for Frederick Ferris and Mary Clark Thompson; she was the daughter of a New York State governor, and he was the founder of First National Bank of the City of New York (now known as Citibank).
While the house itself is a work of art featuring beamed ceilings, leaded paned glass, a billiards and trophy room and breeze-cooled verandas, it is overshadowed by the numerous gardens that surround it, which were developed between 1903 and 1920. Mary Thompson built the first privately owned Japanese garden in North America, and the property also includes a rose garden, Italian garden, rock garden, Blue and White garden, and a greenhouse complex filled with even more plants. Visitors are welcome to tour what is now the fifth state historic park in New York State, but set some time aside because it’s easy to get lost in the wonder of this 50-acre site located in the heart of Canandaigua.
Shopping along Main Street is a treat as well, as its eclectic blend of shops provide a wide range of items you’ll discover you can’t go home without. I advise starting your morning at Simply Crepes Homespun Kitchen for a delicious (and large) breakfast made with whole, natural ingredients before setting out; I greatly enjoyed the maple sausage stackers I had at this “official foodie” location, and they have both sweet and savory items—as well as a very impressive cocktail menu!
Speaking of libations, a stop into Star Cider’s tasting room, which opened in 2019, is a must-try for hard ciders with ingredients sourced from small, locally owned businesses. And the COHO Pizza and Wine Bar on Canandaigua Lake is the perfect place to unwind after a long day; not only is their food delicious (try the Hangover Burger!), but its location directly on the lake provides a serene setting that shouldn’t be missed.
While there are many places to stay in Canandaigua, including some lovely high-end resorts with breathtaking views of the water, I highly recommend The Miami Motel for something completely different. This 1953, Miami-inspired resort has been restored to its mid-century glory by Dennis and Valerie Calkins, and each room is individually decorated to reflect an earlier time. Not only did I greatly enjoy the Art Deco touches that made Room #10 unique, but unwinding in a jacuzzi—right in the living area—was a decadent way to end each day.
The city of Geneva, located about 16 miles from Canandaigua, is definitely worth a stop while in the Finger Lakes—especially if you love artfully restored historic buildings and delicious bespoke wines and cocktails.
Start your visit with a stop into the Finger Lakes Welcome Center, where you can use touchscreen displays to curate your trip, depending on your interests. You can also shop for a wide variety of Taste NY items there, and even enjoy a wine tasting while enjoying beautiful views of Seneca Lake.
Speaking of views, both Belhurst Castle and Geneva on the Lake offer amazing vistas as well as over-the-top accommodations. Modeled after a building in Firenze, Italy, Geneva on the Lake was built as a private home in 1910 before becoming a monastery and then sitting vacant for a number of years. Now a 30-suite resort, the property is also open for lunch and dinner every day as well as weekend high teas.
Belhurst Castle is another once-vacant property that is now a showstopping destination. After Carrie Young Harron purchased the property in 1885, she moved to Geneva, divorced her New York City-based husband, and proceeded to build a four-story mansion that took four years to complete. After the house changed hands in the 1930s, it became a speakeasy and gambling casino during Prohibition, before being sold to a couple that ran it as a restaurant. Today, the property has been expanded to include The Vinifera Inn, with 20 guest rooms, as well as a ballroom, restaurant, bar, winery, spa, and gift shop.
While driving around the area, make sure to stop at Ravines Winery and Tasting Room to try a flight of artisanal dry whites or terroir-driven reds accompanied by seasonally-inspired small plates for sharing, created by European winemaker and oenologist Morten Hallgren and his wife, Lisa, a chef. An added bonus is that you can pet the donkeys outside near the Limestone Springs Vineyard—just make sure to take them a cabbage leaf or two that you can pull right from the planters outside Ravines’ historic barn.
The city of Geneva itself is charming, with its colorful row houses and eye-catching Smith Opera House, which was built in 1894. The venue, which hosts performances and movies, still displays its Art Deco and Baroque charm from the murals on the ceilings and walls to its ornate hanging chandeliers.
One of the most unique finds in the city was the Finger Lakes Wine Shop, Vinifera Wine Bar, and the Speakeasy, owned by Jim Cecere and Kevin San Jose. Located in an 1800s-era building where trolley parts used to be restored, the wine showroom showcases local and New York State wines, and cocktails created using products from small, local distillers and New York State producers.
Best of all was the underground speakeasy, the only one of its kind in the Finger Lakes. Located behind a hidden door, the two-room bar/restaurant captures all of the grandeur of a time gone by. The décor was inspired by speakeasies in Hong Kong, New York City, and London, and the drinks are impressive, too; each one is not only a delicious cocktail, but a carefully curated culinary experience.
To learn more about Ontario County and the Finger Lakes, check out www.VisitFingerLakes.com.
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