Golden Gai Transports You to Tokyo
- Max McCrory
- Mar 31
- 5 min read
Golden Gai offers an elevated take on Japanese fare. The restaurant is named after the Shinjuku Golden-Gai district in Tokyo, Japan, which is a vibrant area known for its old-world charm, featuring a maze of narrow alleys and tiny, themed bars. Golden Gai, located in Bakery Square in Pittsburgh’s East End, is a part of the Richard DeShantz restaurant empire, which includes spots such as Meat and Potatoes, täkō, and Fish Nor Fowl. The group also operates another sushi-focused spot, Gi-Jin. Golden Gai differs from Gi-Jin as it features a larger menu with a wider selection of Japanese food in addition to a more pared-down sushi selection. Golden Gai is also co-owned by Chef Michael Taylor, who previously worked at Gi-Jin.
When you enter Golden Gai, you’re greeted by a moody interior and a long bar stretching almost the entirety of the restaurant. The bar and two four-top tables make up the seating for the restaurant. This setup mirrors the small izakayas you would find in the Golden Gai district. Izakayas are a type of Japanese bar in which a variety of small dishes and snacks are served to accompany alcoholic beverages. If you’re dining with a group larger than three, I would definitely recommend requesting a table when you make your reservation, as it’s easier for conversation. If you opt to sit at the bar, you’ll be able to watch the chefs prepare your meal, which is always fascinating to me. Both spots have their advantages. I opted for a table tucked away in the corner, so I did miss some of that action.
The menu is a combination of starters; maki rolls; nigiri, sashimi, and raw items; and large plates. There’s a lot of variety in the menu, with items like the spicy scallop roll, hamachi crudo, fried udon noodles, and charcoal-grilled chicken. There is something for every taste here.
My group started with the traditional edamame. I wasn’t expecting anything special, but I was pleasantly surprised by the yuzu-honey vinegar and umami seasoning. Both gave the edamame a tangy kick that was new to me.
The wagyu tartare arrived soon after. Golden Gai’s take on this classic French recipe was unlike anything I’d ever tasted before. The kitchen used wagyu instead of filet mignon, which made the entire dish more buttery and velvety. There was kimchi folded into the wagyu, which gave it a subtle spiciness that is unusual in a typical steak tartare. Fuji apple provided a bite of freshness that contrasted with the rich cut of meat. The kimchi, apple, and the way the meat was cut (in matchsticks versus the traditional small chunks) reminded me of how this recipe is executed in Korean cuisine. The fried apple purée dotted along the sides added hints of sweetness and reminded me of the golden egg yolk that usually sits in the center of steak tartare. The paddlefish caviar brought another layer of decadence and brininess. This dish was setting the bar high for Golden Gai. It was one of the standouts of the meal.
Next up came the spicy tuna rice cakes, which was the dish I was most excited for. The presentation was stunning, with the crispy rice base topped with fresh tuna, avocado, spicy mayo, jalapeño, and cilantro. The texture of the crispy rice was perfection. It had the right amount of crunch to contrast with the more luscious tuna and avocado. There was a nice amount of spice, but nothing too intense. This was a delectable bite and definitely a must-order when visiting Golden Gai.
My favorite item to order at Japanese restaurants is always gyoza. It never disappoints. Golden Gai’s gyoza delivered with a lacy, crispy texture on the outside and a succulent ground pork and scallion mixture on the inside. If you love dumplings, then you can’t miss these.
One of my dining companions loves shrimp tempura, so while that’s not something I would typically order, I wanted to try it for their sake. It was unlike traditional tempura, where it’s served with the sauce on the side. At Golden Gai, they smother the tender shrimp with a miso-honey glaze. The shrimp managed to hold their crispiness, and every bite was bursting with a delicate, sweet flavor.
Our table finished our meal with some sushi. We ordered the Rickroll’d (the name made me giggle) and a nigiri plate, which gave us a taste of tuna, salmon, and hamachi. All three of these fish are a part of my go-to order at any sushi restaurant. The Rickroll’d was a delightful twist on a classic salmon-avocado roll with pickled jalapeño, ikura (salmon roe), and wasabi furikake. The jalapeño added a spicy, fresh bite that contrasted with the richness of the salmon, avocado, and ikura. The ikura provided a burst of saltiness with every bite. The wasabi furikake was subtle but brought some necessary savoriness. This roll is definitely unique to Golden Gai. The nigiri plate is simplistic, but I honestly often prefer that to overcomplicated rolls. Both the salmon and tuna were fantastic bites, as I’d already enjoyed them and knew they were melt-in-my-mouth good. The hamachi was a little tougher and not as tender as the previous two fish. Perhaps it was just the cut we received. I’d definitely still try this dish, as it gives you a nice variety of the restaurant’s nigiri offerings.
To accompany my meal, I enjoyed one of the restaurant’s mocktail offerings—the Zozoji Temple. The drink added a touch of whimsy to my meal, as the base of it was oolong and cranberry shaved ice, and I could eat it like a snow cone. Sparkling plum juice and pandan (a tropical plant with fragrant leaves used in Southeast Asian cuisine for its sweet, vanilla-like scent) delivered further sweetness, while the burning rosemary added an herbaceous aroma. The entire drink menu is extensive, with several artfully crafted cocktails and mocktails; a smattering of other nonalcoholic beverages; beer; wine; and sake.
Golden Gai stands apart from other Japanese restaurants by infusing flavors from other cuisines into its menu. Many of the dishes I enjoyed were enhanced by Chef Michael’s inventive thinking. They also prepare the classic Japanese dishes well. They knew when to be creative and when to keep things simplistic. I appreciated that. Their menu offers an array of dishes without being too overwhelming. There were many items I missed and can’t wait to try next time, such as the Golden Roll, the fried rice, the grilled wagyu and potatoes, and the fried chicken. For now, I’ll be dreaming of the spicy tuna rice cakes and wagyu tartare.
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