You wouldn’t think that two days in San Antonio, TX, would be enough to capture 300 years of Lone Star history, but you can’t help but feel immersed in the past in the state’s second-largest city. Home to The Alamo, a UNESCO Historic Site, this part of the state still pays tribute to the heroic efforts of a small group of men who fought and died in the effort to establish Texas’ independence from Mexico.
Set against a backdrop of both historic and modern buildings and pedestrian thoroughfares, it’s hard to believe that this former mission, which later became a military stronghold, still stands. Though it has suffered significant water damage to its limestone foundation and walls over the years, ongoing restoration work, part of a recent $400 million legislative appropriation, will ensure that future generations can learn about how a small group of about 200 men stood their ground against more than 4,000 Mexican soldiers for 13 days in February 1836.
Standing within the four-foot thick walls, one can imagine the bravery and the desperation as soldiers, including commanders James Bowie, William B. Travis, and Tennessee Congressman and frontiersman Davy Crockett, rallied against troops led by Gen. Antonio López de Santa Anna. The siege ended with all of the defenders dead, though a few people—mostly women and children who had taken shelter in The Alamo—did make it out alive.
Stories of heroism abound; legend has it that when defeat was certain, Col. Travis drew a line in the dirt with his sword and asked if his troops wanted to surrender, or cross the line and join him in defending The Alamo until death. All but one of the men crossed the line. Their sacrifice was honored two months after the battle, when Texas forces defeated Mexico at the Battle of San Jacinto on April 21, 1836, shouting, “Remember the Alamo,” as they attacked.
Visitors to The Alamo have numerous options when it comes to the learning about this fearless yet doomed final stand. A 45-minute guided walking tour ($45 adult, $35 child) includes an exploration of the outdoor battlefield, iconic Alamo church and the Alamo Exhibit at the Ralston Family Collections Center. Visitors can also choose to take a self-guided tour of the Alamo Exhibit for $14 adult/$10 child and include the “Victory or Death” audio tour for $10 more. Admission to the church is always free, though timed reservations are required. Make sure to save your place no matter how you choose to visit—more than three million people visit this shrine each year.
When I visited this past May, there was a lot of construction going on, but all of the buildings, which include the church, Long Barrack, collections center and gift shop, were still open. Construction is expected to be completed in 2027, when a new $185 million Visitor Center and Museum opens directly across from Alamo Plaza, adding even more of a reason to check out this historic site.
Texas history is also the focus of the Texas Ranger Museum, which shares space with the Buckhorn Saloon & Museum, located in downtown San Antonio. The two partnered together in 2006 to create a space to display more than a century of Ranger history, paying tribute to Ray Martinez, Joaquin Jackson, John B. Armstrong and Frank Hamer, among others.
The other part of the museum is an interesting mix of animal mounts, carnival oddities and a saloon, which almost defies description. Opened in 1881 by 17-year-old Albert Friedrich, the saloon’s walls are covered with thousands of animal horns and antlers, which he took as payment for drinks. Now the Buckhorn collection is one of the world’s largest collections of horns, displayed alongside artwork made of rattlesnake rattles, which Albert’s wife, Emilie, collected from thirsty patrons.
Even stranger is the “oddity” section of the museum, which includes mummified remains, shrunken heads, a Wolf Boy skull, a mermaid and more. A ticket to see both museums is $23, which, if you’re looking for something completely different to do, is well worth the cost.
Another unique facet of San Antonio is its Riverwalk, which was developed in the 1950s. This lovely area, which links 2,020 acres of public lands via the San Antonio River, runs right underneath the downtown area and features fun shops, impressive dining and a wonderful place to walk under towering, leafy trees. You can relax in the shade and enjoy a margarita on the shore, or take a boat for a sightseeing tour or even a pre-planned dinner. What was so surprising to me is that even though I knew the Riverwalk was there, the fact that it’s located lower than the rest of the city via a set of staircases makes it even more magical.
Of course, foodwise, Texas never disappoints, whether you’re looking for good home cooking or fancy bites, most of which come in pretty big portions. We enjoyed great Tex-Mex for lunch at Café Olé and country fried steak for dinner at the Republic of Texas Restaurant, both of which are located in the Riverwalk area, as well as excellent Italian comfort food at Guillermo’s Downtown, where the meals were piping hot and the service Southern-state friendly.
There are numerous places to stay while in San Antonio, from resorts and spas to budget hotels, to boutique, historic properties like The Gunter, where we stayed, which dates to 1909 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The largest property ever built in San Antonio when it was constructed, its massive crystal chandeliers, buff brick exterior and Bar 414 speakeasy hearken back to an early time.
To learn more about San Antonio, check out www.visitSanAntonio.com.
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